Paris, the fashion capital of the world, is teetering on the edge as the highly anticipated haute couture week starts on Monday, July 3. As designers and fashionistas prepare to showcase their exquisite creations, they find themselves caught in the midst of a city grappling with grief and outrage. This week sets the stage for an unprecedented happening where fashion’s glamour and the harsh realities of the world collide in a high-stakes spectacle.
French label Celine cancelled its menswear show, scheduled outside the official calendar, with designer Hedi Slimane saying it was “inconsiderate” to hold a fashion show when Paris was “bereaved and bruised.” First up is Schiaparelli, with fashionistas wondering if it can beat the social media meltdown caused by last season’s fake animal heads. The heads, sported by the likes of Kylie Jenner, were another publicity coup for Schiaparelli artistic director Daniel Roseberry, who has overseen a revamp of the brand and attracted the likes of Lady Gaga and Beyonce as clients.
Animal activists seemed unsure what to think. The US branch of PETA, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, called the heads “fabulously innovative,” while PETA’s French branch said a thought should be spared for the silkworms and sheep “who have really suffered.” A dominant feature of this season in Paris has been the lavish spending by Saudi Arabia as it tries to establish its own fashion industry. That continues this week, with couturier Mohammad Ashi becoming the first Saudi designer to show as part of the official haute couture week roster with his eponymous label. There have been multiple events across the menswear and couture weeks to introduce newcomers from the kingdom, including a cocktail soiree at the Ritz hotel on Monday.
Ashi has been a favourite of celebrities for a while, dressing the likes of Queen Rania of Jordan, Penelope Cruz and star of the new Indiana Jones movie, Phoebe Waller-Bridge, who wore one of his creations to the London premiere last week. Couture week will also see first-time appearances by the United States’ Thom Browne and France’s Charles de Vilmorin alongside regulars like Christian Dior. De Vilmorin, just 26, will present for his own brand after a short-lived tenure as artistic director of Rochas. Fellow couturier Stephane Rolland is presenting his latest collection, dedicated to legendary singer Maria Callas, at the Opera Garnier. It will be filmed by veteran French director Claude Lelouch for his next movie. Rolland said it was vital to merge fashion and other art forms.
