At London Fashion Week, on September 16, 2024, designer Daniel Lee unveiled a groundbreaking Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Burberry, blending sportswear influences with the iconic trench coat.
During this season’s London Fashion Week, Burberry’s showcase stood out for its innovative designs but also for signaling a major shift under Daniel Lee’s creative direction. The setting itself was a departure from the norm; instead of the traditional park tent, Lee chose the stark, brutalist National Theatre, a decision that echoed his modernist vision for the brand.
From the foyer transformed by artist Gary Hume, featuring lilac carpeting and vibrant green geometric patterns, to the grand staircase where models descended like contemporary warriors in revamped Burberry classics, the show was a feast for the senses. The new collection reimagined the quintessential Burberry trench with a streetwear twist, presenting cropped jackets for women and zip-up tartan jackets for men, all while maintaining the meticulous structure the brand is known for.
The palette was a deliberate nod to the y2k resurgence, with low-rise trousers and cargo capris cutting a bold silhouette just below the knee. Daniel Lee’s homage to Gary Hume’s “extraordinary use of color” was evident in touches of green, lilac, and carrot across the collection, culminating in a series of glamorous gold-sequined dresses.
With Burberry facing financial challenges and a declining global interest in luxury goods, Lee’s fresh take could not come at a more critical time. The brand, once a stalwart of the British luxury scene, is set to exit the FTSE 100 after a significant drop in stock value, reflecting its current market struggles.
The show also marked a broader representation of British fashion, with appearances from emerging designers like Labrum London and Sinéad O’Dwyer, showcasing the dynamic and diverse future of UK fashion.
With AFP
