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In the heart of Old Nice, where a ray of sunlight filters through the labyrinthine, shaded alleys, one is struck by the opulent facade of a building with a marble portal. This is the Palais Lascaris in all its grandeur. Once an aristocratic residence, the edifice now serves as a museum of antique musical instruments, as it also hosts artistic exhibitions. The museum houses an exceptional collection of approximately 500 instruments, making it the second largest of its kind in France.
In the first half of the 17th century, the Lascaris-Ventimiglia family constructed the resplendent Palais Lascaris, adorning its ceiling vault with their coat of arms: a crowned two-headed eagle holding the motto “Nec me fulgura” (Nothing strikes me down) in its beak. The palace, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, was owned by Jean-Baptiste Lascaris, a field marshal for the Duke of Savoy and a descendant of the Count of Ventimiglia and the daughter of Byzantine Emperor Theodore II Lascaris. The Lascaris-Ventimiglia lineage included numerous knights and dignitaries of the Order of Malta across its various branches.
During the French Revolution, the aristocracy was dispossessed of their assets, and the Lascaris family lost ownership of their magnificent palace. It was sold in 1802. Over a century later, in 1942, the city of Nice acquired the building to establish a museum dedicated to regional arts and traditions. The palace received the designation of a historic monument in 1946. Comprehensive restoration work was undertaken from 1963 to 1970, reviving the palace’s former splendor, complete with its white marble balustrades. It opened to the public, showcasing major elements of 17th- and 18th-century fine arts, including architecture, decorative arts, sculptures and paintings. A subsequent phase of restoration occurred between 1996 and 2001, culminating in the transfer of the city of Nice’s collection of antique musical instruments from the Masséna Museum to the Palais Lascaris for permanent display.
Upon entering the palace, one encounters an opulent entry vestibule, extended by a grand staircase reflecting Genoese artistic influences. On one side, in a room aptly named the “Chamber of Wonders,” local artist Sylvie T. exhibited her Baroque-inspired drawings, engravings, and other creations on the white walls. During her residency at the palace, she amassed over 50 works, including ink sketches and watercolors, as part of her exhibition, “Baroque from A to Z.”
Returning to the monumental staircase, one notes its intricately carved balusters and marble statues. These include depictions of Mars and Venus, a bust of a young Bacchus, and ancestral busts of the Lascaris-Ventimiglia family on either side.
On the first floor, the low-ceilinged rooms that once served as the private apartments of the Lascaris family now host an exhibition titled “Odon: Baroque Metamorphosis.” This display features more than 60 woven artworks and drawings by the late visual artist Odon, whose collections can be found in numerous museums across Europe and the United States. The influence of the Baroque style is evident in the sinuous lines, spirals, whirls, twists and dynamic movements of his work, which harmoniously resonate with the trompe-l’oeil décors of the museum, enhancing their beauty.
Continuing the ascent to the second floor, referred to as the “noble floor,” one encounters a layout characteristic of Genoese palaces, featuring state apartments with stunning original ceilings adorned with mythological themes. These were painted by artists of the Genoese School and Lombard stucco craftsmen. One discovers that the Rococo-style wood paneling of doors and the “Room of Seasons” still remain intact. These salons have been furnished through the contributions of Nice’s museums, donations, and acquisitions, and are decorated with fine Flemish and Aubusson tapestries.
The grand salon boasts a frescoed ceiling depicting “The Fall of Phaeton Struck by Jupiter,” a myth often found in Ligurian aristocratic residences. Among its treasures, the Palais Lascaris houses France’s second-largest collection of historical musical instruments, thanks in part to artists like Gisèle Tissier-Grandpierre (1896-1988). A virtuoso harpist with a passion for art and music, Tissier-Grandpierre was a luminary of the 1920s social scene in Nice. Upon her death, she bequeathed her collection of 66 musical instruments, including 18 harps, some dating back to the 17th century, to the Institut de France. Subsequently, these were transferred to Palais Lascaris as per an agreement, and they now reside in the antechamber of the chapel.
Reflecting the musical tastes of 19th-century Nice’s upper bourgeoisie is an invaluable collection of instruments, bequeathed by Antoine Gautier (1825-1904), an amateur musician who played the violin and viola with his brother Raymond. Two rooms showcase fabulous instruments from his extensive collection of 225 pieces from around the world — one of Europe’s most significant collections.
As visitors transition from room to room, they can marvel at artifacts displayed in glass cabinets, including a tenor sackbut associated with sacred music, Baroque guitars that were fashionable at the court of Louis XIV, violas d’amore embellished with mother-of-pearl and a blindfolded head symbolizing blind love. Musical performances are held annually in the palace’s salons to bring the sonic qualities of these antiquated instruments back to life.
The tour reveals a host of smaller violins, which 18th-century dancing masters could literally pull from their pockets, as well as violas da gamba, a double bass, recorders, a grand piano resembling a harpsichord and harps. Also featured are a rare collection of clarinets, including a delicate basset horn cherished by Mozart for its melancholic timbre and its association with Masonic rituals.
The collection expands to include a saxophone quartet, a saxotromba and other keyboard instruments, notably a luxurious grand piano by Playel, commissioned by Nice’s Masséna Circle (led by Count Eugène de Cessole in 1861) and a collection of jazz instruments.
This instrumental collection is part of the MIMO (Musical Instrument Museums Online) project, with detailed entries accessible via the Europeana digital library.
Sylvie T.’s exhibition “Baroque from A to Z” is scheduled to run at Palais Lascaris through January 4, 2024, while “Odon: Baroque Metamorphosis” is scheduled to run through September 25.
