Paris Fashion Week witnessed a surprising lack of leather at Hermes, a restrained but star-studded Loewe show, and a bittersweet farewell to fashion great Dries Van Noten.
The City of Lights was abuzz with excitement as Paris Fashion Week continued to showcase the latest trends and creative visions from some of the world’s most renowned fashion houses. Saturday’s lineup featured a surprising twist from Hermes, a minimalist approach from Loewe and an emotional farewell to the legendary designer Dries Van Noten.
Hermes, a brand synonymous with luxurious leather goods, surprised attendees with a spring summer 2025 collection that predominantly featured cotton and linen in shades of white and blue. Designer Veronique Nichanian described the collection as being “grazed by a gentle breeze… Clothing casts reflections into the transparency of water.” The show featured docker hats, trench coats and drawstring trousers, with only a few glimpses of leather in the form of sandals and a sleeveless bomber-style jacket. This departure from the brand’s signature material showcased Hermes’ versatility and ability to adapt to changing trends and consumer preferences.
Meanwhile, Loewe, the rising Spanish star within the LVMH conglomerate, presented a minimalist show that creative director JW Anderson described as “the radical act of restraint.” Despite the understated approach, the show attracted a star-studded front row, including Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodovar, US actor Jeff Goldblum and singer Sabrina Carpenter. Anderson’s unique touches were still evident in the collection, with exotic feathers adorning headbands and angular collars jutting out from T-shirts. The brand’s signature cargo pants also received an Ottoman harem twist. Almodovar, impressed by the show, remarked, “I don’t think they were clothes for me, but I loved it. Coming here is like going to a show, to the cinema, to the opera, to the theater: each character has to be dressed in a certain way, a lot of emotion is created that way.”
The most anticipated event of the day was the last-ever show by Dries Van Noten, as the celebrated designer heads into retirement. Van Noten, though not a household name, has been praised in fashion circles for his 40-year career, during which he combined audacity, sophistication and poetry in his designs. His decision to retire at the age of 66, while still healthy and successful, came as a surprise to many. In an interview with The New York Times, Van Noten expressed his desire to step away from the “addiction” of fashion, stating, “Everything’s too intense. I can’t come down anymore.”
Known for his exquisite tailoring and subtle avant-garde styling with vibrant color clashes, Van Noten once told AFP, “I’m a gardener, so flowers automatically come up everywhere. The starting point for a collection can be very literal or very abstract: a painting, a color, someone’s thoughts, anything at all.” His staff will continue to create collections, starting with the womenswear show in September, with the only condition being that they remain in Antwerp, away from the Parisian fashion glitz.
As Van Noten prepares for life after fashion, he shared his thoughts on the transition with The New York Times, “After the men’s show, I’m going to have another email address. I’m not going to be @driesvannoten any more. I have to find an Instagram name now, because my Instagram is Dries Van Noten, and that is the brand. It’s strange. That I didn’t see coming.”
Paris Fashion Week continues to showcase the ever-evolving world of fashion, with surprising twists, minimalist approaches and emotional farewells. As the industry bids adieu to one of its most celebrated designers, it also looks forward to the future, eagerly anticipating the innovative creations that will grace the runways in the seasons to come.
With AFP
