Despite the struggle of daily life in Lebanon, Selim Mouzannar chose to stay in his beloved city when he could have easily settled elsewhere. Beirut “runs in his blood”. His jewelry designs have transcended borders to Paris, Hong Kong, London, and New York.
Selim Mouzannar was born in Beirut in 1963 into a family of jewelers that used to trade with the Ottoman Empire since the 19th century. He acknowledges that at one time, he was reluctant to take on the family business. He made his debut as a trainee under the watchful eye of his father, Jacques, at the family shop in the old jewelry souk, in the heart of Beirut. “Until today, I can still smell the scents of the souks”, Mouzannar says.
His reluctance to leave Lebanon was short-lived, as he ended up studying overseas, and earned two diplomas from the National Institute of Gemology (ING) and the GIA. During his twelve years of expatriation, away from the gunfire of the civil war, Mouzannar roamed the four corners of the globe: France, the United States and the Gulf, in addition to Thailand and Burma, where he lived with precious stone explorers, mainly in the ruby mines of the Mogok valley and the sapphires mines of Païlin on the Cambodian border. The path he followed would steer him towards what will become his profession, his passion, and above all a constant challenge to excel in jewelry creation.
Back in Beirut in 1993, he opened his workshop and showcased his first collection. Today, his creations are produced in his new atelier in the center of Beirut where 23 talented artisan jewelers, setters, polishers, and cutters work hand in hand. Selim Mouzannar is known for being positive and bright. He is driven by a universal philosophy, which propelled the success of his brand to Bon Marché Rive Gauche, the French department store where his pieces have been on display for nearly a decade. The “Rose de France” collection reflects the beauty and softness of hexagonal stone cuts. His international reputation among major retailers in Paris, London, New York and Dallas, helped him overcome the impact of the economic crisis gripping Lebanon since 2019 which was compounded by Beirut port blast in August 2020, and the devaluation of the national currency by more than 90%.
“We are surviving,” he explains. “It’s not the financial aspect that really worries me as much as the risk of the resurgence of insecurity and violence”. International appeal of his designs was a financial lifeline in the last couple of years. Income from his exports enables him to support the mother company in Lebanon as well as his staff.
Mouzannar owns two boutiques in Beirut: The Jeweler Vintage, where brand pieces like Cartier and Bulgari, as well as Ottoman and Victorian jewelry are showcased and Macle Jewel Collective where he brings together emerging international designers including Jacquie Aiche from Los Angeles, Yvonne Leon and Dorette from France, and Lebanese creators like Joëlle Kharrat.
ONGOING SUCCESSION AND ACTIVISM
The fifth generation of the Mouzannar family has followed suit in the jewelry world. Mouzannar’s daughter Ranwa, 28, settled in Paris after having been seriously injured in the August 4 explosion. She has established herself in the world of luxury hotels in London and Paris, and earned a diploma in gemology in New York. Today, she oversees brand strategy and marketing. His son Namir, 25, has also chosen to embrace his father’s profession after pursuing a degree in mathematics. He studied jewelry creation at the Haute Ecole de joaillerie in Paris, before joining the workshop in Beirut.
Even though jewelry has been his main vocation for decades, Selim Mouzannar is also an activist and a member of several organizations working to promote change in Lebanon. Early on, he began his activism by joining movements that advocate Lebanon’s sovereignty, and took part in all the demonstrations against the Syrian occupation.
6 questions interview
Have you ever taken major risks in your work?
– Living is itself a permanent risk. Life is more vibrant when one takes risks.
Have you ever had moments of doubt?
– Doubt is instructive. It gives me hope.
When and how did the great overseas adventure begin for Maison Selim Mouzannar?
– It started in the aftermath of the violent 2006 war that paralyzed Lebanon for 33 days. This is when the pressing and risky idea of opening up to the outside world was born. I belonged to a fundamentally intolerant country, where brutal militias prevailed, and uneducated militiamen were leaders. France, a nation that respects human rights, welcomed us in its beauty and its tradition. This country taught me the refinement worthy of precious stones.
Where do you get your strength from?
– It is a combination of strength and laziness. Beirut runs in my blood, and strength comes primarily from my universal philosophy.
Would you define yourself as being resilient?
– I’d rather say resistant, non-violent and optimistic.
Are you worried about the uncertainties that lie ahead?
– I believe that “fear is human and hope is its antidote”. According to Spinoza: “Fear cannot do without hope, and hope cannot do without fear”. That being said, “I will always fight peacefully against violence, whatever its source may be”.