At the recent Paris Fashion Week, the runway showcased a striking shift towards empowering women’s wear for the upcoming summer collections.
From Victorian-era bloomers to modern power suits for the “girl boss,” the Paris Fashion Week highlighted a clear trend towards emancipatory clothing.
Romantic Twist in Parkas
The demure doll image is alive but shattered by flirty designs. Flowing blouses, swirling petticoats, and floral prints created a romantic boudoir vibe among fashion enthusiasts. Loewe’s designs boldly revealed crinolines under floral dresses, paired unexpectedly with high-top boxer sneakers. “We see evening gowns and parkas combined, sexy yet practical, just how people want to dress right now,” Claire Thomson-Jonville, a global contributor for Vogue, explained to AFP.
Australian label Zimmermann also embraced fluid fabrics and a soft, powdery late-summer palette disrupted by nearly military-style jackets.
Flat Revolution
A noticeable revolution this season is the dramatic shift in footwear, from high heels to a parade of flat shoes. Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s fervently feminist artistic director, nearly eradicated heels, opting instead for models to stride in fabric cuissardes, embroidered gladiators, and minimalist soles. Acne Studios paired the most elegant draped skirt suits with increasingly popular flat shoes resembling slippers, altering the walk to one that is both dragging and more approachable.
Suit Up for Empowerment
“YSL, Loewe, Victoria Beckham, and Christophe Lemaire all emphasize the need for strong feminine energy in this era,” Claire Thomson-Jonville noted. At Saint-Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello nostalgically revisited the founder’s archives to dress women in “Yves” looks. Fifty-eight years after introducing the first women’s tuxedo, the Belgian designer crafted oversized wool drapes and masculine suits with pronounced shoulders and iconic square glasses, presenting a strikingly androgynous aesthetic.
Victoria Beckham’s suits were tailored more snugly yet creatively deconstructed, ripped at the shoulders or slit up a leg, symbolizing a fierce reclamation of this male wardrobe staple. Stella McCartney’s trouser suits were adorned with breast jewels, adding a dizzying touch of sensuality.
Bloomer Comeback
Simultaneously regressive and provocative, the bloomer, originally championed by Libby Miller in 1851 to enable women to ride bicycles, makes a comeback as a feminist garment. Typically paired with a men’s jacket or shirt, this daring combination proves both functional and fashionable. Chloé celebrated this unexpected item with a very sexy lace version.
This fresh perspective on traditional women’s roles through fashion not only revisits but also revitalizes the concept of the feminine wardrobe as a form of empowerment.
With AFP
