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In Milan, fashion aficionados were eagerly awaiting the occasion. Gucci, the gem of French luxury conglomerate Kering, stood at a pivotal juncture as it unveiled the inaugural collection of its new Creative Director, Sabato de Sarno. Seeking rejuvenation to bolster sales, the Florentine fashion powerhouse embarked on a journey of reinvention.
The audacious and avant-garde trend set by former Creative Director Alessandro Michele took a backseat. De Sarno, the 40-year-old Neapolitan, opted for an ageless aesthetic, emphasizing the brand’s legacy and classical elegance. High-profile figures including Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling and British musician Mark Ronson were captivated by leather pieces, an iconic signature of the brand. However, this choice was not without controversy, as underscored by animal rights activists who were protesting after the event.
The color palette of the Ancora collection (Again in Italian) ranges from subdued shades to vibrant hues, notably pistachio green. De Sarno, whose illustrious career behind the scenes includes stints at Prada, Dolce&Gabbana and notably at Valentino, seems to have grasped the essence of blending tradition with contemporary flair.
The organization of the runway show was not without its challenges. Due to unpredictable weather, the venue had to be hastily relocated to the Gucci Hub on the outskirts of the city.
This artistic upheaval comes amid a tumultuous period for Gucci. The departure of Alessandro Michele, a creative linchpin, coupled with significant shifts in leadership—notably the exit of Marco Bizzarri and the succession of Jean-François Palus—indicates a strategic inflection point for Kering.
Undeniably, Gucci, which accounts for over half of Kering’s revenue, remains under intense scrutiny. Despite a 10% dip in Kering’s net profit in the first half and a marginal downturn in Gucci’s sales, Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault remains bullish, envisioning potential for the brand that surpasses current metrics.
Luca Solca, Senior Research Analyst at Bernstein, emphasizes that Gucci’s future will largely hinge on De Sarno’s ability to innovate while preserving the brand’s core identity. The coming months will be critical in discerning the ramifications of this artistic pivot.
Thus, the industry waits with bated breath for the close of 2024, when preliminary indicators on the commercial reception of this new collection will emerge. For Gucci, a new chapter appears to have commenced. The pertinent question remains: will it live up to the lofty expectations?
With AFP
