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Elegance and sensuality in harmonious synergy: the dynamic duo of Dolce & Gabbana unveiled, with a flourish in Milan on Saturday, a men’s collection that epitomizes the art of bespoke luxury and exquisite refinement, while interspersing the ensemble with daring whimsicality that magnifies the physique with verve.
Veering from their customary flamboyance in a kaleidoscopic realm, the dynamic duo of designers astutely orchestrated a runway show, predominantly steeped in noir – their signature hue, which evokes a wistful homage to the sun-drenched Sicily, dear to Domenico Dolce, who hails from a quaint hamlet near Palermo.
In the impeccably curated invitation, the maestros bestowed their sagacious insight into the term “style”: it epitomizes an individual’s knack for attire and demeanor, characterized by an innate elegance that is at once refined and polished.
This paradigm is embodied with unerring rigor in their latest collection, which draws inspiration from classical staples, and reincarnates them with flair – think impeccably tailored jackets, flowing overcoats, slim neckties, and high-waisted, voluminous trousers.
Bermuda shorts, the collection’s tour de force, are harmonized with intricately sophisticated blazers. Ensembles with slender black and white stripes, crowned with felt hats, audaciously channel the mystique of the infamous Al Capone.
Such meticulous craftsmanship is dexterously tempered with lacy accents, polka-dot prints, and floral embroideries adorning the shirts. Tunics flirt with sheer opulence, as do select trousers, coyly revealing the legs.
Beyond the classic black and white, Dolce & Gabbana’s chromatic symphony is enriched with tones of grey, camel, and brown. The fabric, lustrous and regal, allows, according to the house, for the sculpting of silhouettes.
“Concentrating on style is a journey we embarked upon a year ago, as in the tempestuous sea of social media we are bombarded by a maelstrom of contradictory imagery, spawning palpable confusion,” shared Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana from the wings of the runway.
“Each day heralds the ascent of fresh icons, but will they etch an indelible mark upon the annals of tomorrow?” they queried.
“We realized we possess a distinctive sartorial lexicon, and that galvanized us to rejuvenate our hallmarks, with the timeless art of haute couture as our North Star; for a finely cut jacket or immaculately tailored trousers will never be enfeebled by the sands of time,” they affirmed with unshakable certitude.
“The figure of the influencer no longer wields the scepter of sway, as throngs no longer make a beeline to the boutiques under the spell of their posts, for they are devoid of a cultural underpinning or a scintilla of storytelling finesse (…) today, the schizophrenia of thought reigns supreme, sowing seeds of confusion,” they proclaimed with unflinching bravery.
This heralds a bold volte-face given that, in February 2021, the duo unveiled a bespoke men’s collection tailored for the TikTok generation, flaunting streetwear ensembles in riotous hues and trousers adorned with leopard prints.
Among the illustrious spectators ensconced in the front row on Saturday was a conclave of influencers, the American polymath – singer and actor Machine Gun Kelly, as well as the South Korean K-pop luminary, Doyoung.
On the second day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, there was a fervid frenzy in the vicinity of the couture houses’ showrooms, where throngs of aficionados, smartphones at the ready, were vying to capture the grand entrance of influencers, K-pop demigods, and other glitterati.
The esteemed Italian haute couture house Valentino kicked off the festivities with aplomb on Friday. After three years of unveiling androgynous collections, it staged a runway show in the stately courtyard of the University of Milan, with a singular focus on the “timeless male wardrobe.”
The collection delved into the annals of classicism, showcasing dapper dandies in bermudas and tailored jackets, swathed in immaculate hues of white, grey, or black. It also turned the spotlight on more laid-back silhouettes, featuring ensembles of relaxed tops and voluminous trousers, coupled with elongated overcoats.
With AFP.
