Milan Fashion Week closed on Sunday, leaving behind a vibrant mix of bold trends, historic inspirations, and red-carpet drama. Designers embraced everything from 1920s elegance to glittering gold and daringly short silhouettes.
The main shows at Milan Fashion Week wrapped up Sunday after another season of standout dresses, flawless tailoring, statement leather coats, and luxurious handbags.
Here are some of the key looks from the Spring/Summer 2026 women's collections:
1920s Chic
Ferragamo designer Maximilian Davis revisited the roaring twenties with a lively collection of speakeasy-inspired suits and dresses featuring dropped waists, low-slung backs, and long tassels, accented by bold animal prints.
"It was a period when people were creating spaces for themselves and rebelling against societal norms, and that spirit translated into people’s wardrobes," Davis said in the show notes.
Antonio Marras explored a similar era, imagining writers Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, and Katherine Mansfield vacationing in Sardinia.
Models walked a runway covered in piles of salt — a nod to the island’s famous product — dressed in patterned frocks and suits, carrying sketchbooks, suitcases, and even violins.
Shirts and Stripes
Prada once again drew inspiration from uniforms, presenting military-style jumpsuits, shirts layered under dresses with cinched waists, and full skirts paired with long evening gloves.
Fendi showcased button-down shirt dresses and sheer blouses with tight collars, describing the collection as "both boyish and ladylike."
At Tod's, oversized striped shirts were worn over leather minis, while draped dresses and matching handbags featured diagonal stripes in earthy tones.
Dario Vitale’s debut for Versace delivered vibrant striped trousers and loud print shirts, embodying what the house called "outrageous and uncomplicated elegance designed for a life led by feeling."
Dolce & Gabbana offered a sensual twist on men’s striped pajamas, adding jewel embellishments or pairing them with lingerie to create a balance between boudoir and city style.
The front row included stars Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci, a nod to their iconic roles in The Devil Wears Prada.
Belts and Elastic
Fluid skirts and wide-shouldered jackets dominated the week, brought into sharp definition by elastic bands and drawstrings inspired by sportswear, seen prominently at Fendi.
At Max Mara, black elastic was used to cinch floral coats, accentuate bare midriffs above pencil skirts, and even complement feathery black organza gowns.
"I wanted a modern, twangy, snappy element to contrast anything that could have been deemed as floaty or delicate or feminine," designer Ian Griffiths said, noting a "slightly fetishistic" undertone.
Emporio Armani featured kimono-style fastenings on floaty dresses and trousers, while Boss showcased thin leather belts and cumberbands hanging low to define structured leather looks.
All That Glitters
Milan's signature glamour shone brightest at Roberto Cavalli, where Fausto Puglisi unveiled his “Gold Obsession” collection on a glittering golden runway.
Inspired by Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra, the collection featured figure-hugging gowns in shimmering fabrics like liquid jersey and coated lace. "Gold is not just a colour, but an aesthetic vision: precious, bold, and contemporary," the label stated.
Gucci’s Demna went full red carpet for his debut collection, presented through a short film starring Demi Moore. The designs included oversized faux fur coats worn as dresses, metallic bodysuits, and extravagant gowns, one modeled by tennis champion Serena Williams.
Shrink and Shorten
"Everything gets shortened," declared Missoni, as its collection featured mini dresses doubling as open-backed T-shirts, ultra-short swim briefs, and rolled-up shorts.
Fendi also embraced slips, pairing them with sporty bomber jackets or floral embellishments, while Tod's styled burnt orange underwear with jerseys and printed scarves.
By Alice RITCHIE / AFP
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