Jonathan Anderson Departs Loewe: Speculation Mounts Over Dior Appointment
Creative director of Loewe British-Irish fashion designer Jonathan Anderson arrives for the premiere of A24's "Queer" at the DGA Theater in Los Angeles on November 13, 2024. © Michael Tran / AFP

After over a decade as creative director at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson announces his departure, sparking speculation about his future, particularly with Dior. His visionary leadership transformed the brand, blending traditional craftsmanship with bold, avant-garde designs.

Jonathan Anderson, the Northern Irish fashion designer, is leaving the Spanish fashion house Loewe, where he served as creative director for more than eleven years. His decision was announced this Monday morning through an official statement from the brand, which is owned by the luxury giant LVMH. His departure has immediately sparked speculation about his future, particularly regarding his possible appointment as creative director at Dior.

Under Jonathan Anderson's leadership, Loewe underwent a true transformation, both creatively and economically. The brand saw its profits grow, reaching 207 million euros in 2023, a 62.5% increase compared to the previous year. Loewe attributes this success to the bold vision of its creator, who has designed iconic pieces such as the Puzzle bag, recognized for its innovative geometric lines. This financial success crowns more than a decade of work that allowed Loewe to reposition itself as an essential luxury brand, blending traditional craftsmanship with avant-garde design.

Sidney Toledano, former head of Dior and current director of the French Institute of Fashion (IFM), praised Jonathan Anderson's work, calling him one of the greatest creative directors of his generation. According to Toledano, Anderson's true strength lies in his creativity as well as in his ability to build a unique and enduring universe that will persist long after his departure from Loewe.

Among the designer’s most notable projects is his work for renowned artists. Anderson designed memorable costumes for Beyoncé during her Renaissance tour, including sculptural bodysuits adorned with trompe-l'œil hands. He is also the creator of the red outfit worn by Rihanna during the 2023 Super Bowl, a moment that made headlines as it revealed her pregnancy. These collaborations with music icons demonstrate the extent of Anderson's influence beyond the fashion runways.

Rumors about his future role have been circulating for several months. Amid high turnover in the fashion industry, his name frequently comes up in discussions about the artistic direction of Dior, the historic house of the LVMH group. With Kim Jones's recent departure from Dior Homme, speculation about Jonathan Anderson's future has intensified, with some suggesting that he could take charge of both Dior's men's and women's collections. According to sources close to the matter, Anderson is a favored candidate for this position.

At 40 years old, Jonathan Anderson began his fashion career after attending the London School of Fashion. Before founding his own brand, JW Anderson, in 2008, he had worked in Prada's marketing department. His vision of luxury, blending tradition with modernity, and his talent for perfect tailoring quickly propelled him onto the international stage.

As a designer, Anderson has continuously pushed the boundaries of avant-garde fashion while remaining deeply rooted in craftsmanship and material quality. Loewe's fashion shows became events where art and fashion intersected, attracting movie celebrities like Timothée Chalamet, Pedro Almodóvar, and Tilda Swinton, who wore his creations and represented the brand worldwide.

In his farewell message, Anderson expressed his gratitude for the collaborators who supported him throughout his journey at Loewe, emphasizing that building a brand is done “season after season, year after year.” What marks the end of his adventure at Loewe is not just a departure but the continuation of a legacy of creativity and innovation that will undoubtedly have a lasting impact on the fashion world.

His departure evokes both admiration and questions about what lies ahead. Jonathan Anderson, a true artisan of modern fashion, seems ready to embark on a new chapter, and if the rumors are to be believed, this may very well take place at the helm of a prestigious house like Dior.

With AFP

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