The classic British dish, pie and mash, is seeking protected status, similar to renowned products like champagne. As it gains popularity, its cultural significance and fight for official recognition grow stronger.
Pie and mash, an iconic dish of British cuisine, is at the heart of a campaign to secure a protected designation, similar to champagne or parmesan. In a pie and mash shop in East London, the atmosphere is simple: no menu, just one specialty – a beef pie accompanied by a scoop of mashed potatoes, covered with a parsley sauce known as “liquor.” The G Kelly restaurant tirelessly serves customers looking for a quick, affordable meal, for around five pounds (or 6 euros).
Originating from the London Docks and popular with workers, this dish is now a true pillar of British culinary culture. So much so that Conservative MP Richard Holden recently introduced a bill aimed at granting it protected status. This proposal, supported by a dozen parliamentarians, was presented at the end of 2024. “It was about time!” exclaims Daniel Terrance, a 39-year-old electrician, savoring one of his weekly pies, accompanied by his traditional dish of eels in jelly.
Although English cuisine still suffers from clichés, especially in France, defenders of pie and mash, which originated in the 19th century, are confident about their chances of gaining this official recognition. The next step: getting the recipe validated by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) to obtain the “Traditional Specialty Guaranteed” (TSG) label, which protects traditional recipes without limiting their geographic production.
For Neil Vening, owner of G Kelly, this label would act as a safeguard against the production of low-quality industrial pies by large retailers. “It’s an attack on our great heritage,” he laments, showing black-and-white photos of his family and employees in front of the shop founded in 1939 by George Kelly. However, the gentrification of East London poses an additional threat. Many newcomers prefer modern cafés and sourdough bread, forcing several establishments to close. But for the loyal customers, “nostalgia” remains at the heart of the experience.
“I like change, but not everyone does,” explains Leanne Black, a G Kelly employee for 14 years. “It’s not just the food. Some people feel that the world outside has changed so much, and when they come here, it’s like they’re going back in time.”
For Neil Vening, despite these challenges, his establishment is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, driven both by new residents of the area and by tourists. At the same time, pie and mash is spreading further beyond London, carried by former residents who have moved away. The dish is now offered in many cities beyond the capital.
With AFP
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