©Etro collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Womenswear Spring / Summer 2025.
Photo Credit: Marco Bertorello / AFP
As creative directors shuffle and sales drop, the fashion industry faces a power shift reminiscent of Game of Thrones.
The fashion world is in the midst of a seismic shift, with designers shuffling positions and rumors swirling about who will take over at some of the most prestigious houses. As sales continue to slump, this turmoil is being compared to a fashion version of Game of Thrones, with artistic directors vying for power and prestige.
One of the most talked-about departures this year is that of Pierpaolo Piccioli, who left Valentino in March after more than 20 years at the helm. His departure sent shockwaves through the industry, but the Roman luxury brand quickly announced a new leader: former Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele. His first official collection will debut later this month at Paris Fashion Week, and all eyes are on how he will reshape Valentino.
Etro collectionPhoto Credit: Marco Bertorello / AFP
Meanwhile, Chanel is also facing a vacancy at the top. Virginie Viard, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld after his death in 2019, stepped down in June, leaving the legendary French house without a creative leader. Among the many rumors, Simon Porte Jacquemus, the rising star of French fashion, is repeatedly mentioned as a possible successor.
June also saw the farewell of another icon: Antwerp’s Dries Van Noten. After nearly four decades of shaping fashion with his cult designs, he has decided to retire, leaving a void in the world of high fashion.
On the other hand, Givenchy has finally filled its creative director role, which had been vacant since Matthew Williams left in January. British designer Sarah Burton, known for her tenure at Alexander McQueen, has taken over the French haute couture house, much to the delight of fashion insiders.
Roberto Cavalli collectionPhoto Credit: Gabriel Bouyz
Milan Fashion Week has felt the impact of these changes, with both Tom Ford and Blumarine missing from the runway this season. Tom Ford announced Haider Ackermann as its new artistic director, who will present his first collection in Paris for autumn 2025, while Blumarine brought on David Koma after Walter Chiapponi’s sudden exit following just one season.
With all these departures and arrivals, rumors continue to swirl. Will Kim Jones stay at Fendi much longer? And what about John Galliano, whose contract with Maison Margiela is nearing its end? Some speculate that Galliano could make a return to Dior or even join Fendi.
"Artistic directors are expected to deliver results in record time — one or two seasons at most," says Alessia Pellarini, founder of The AP Archive. "If they don’t, it’s on to the next one." Pellarini, a former design director at Fendi, notes that, despite all the changes, the typical creative director remains a white European man, a trend the industry is slow to change.
In contrast, some designers are opting for larger but more mainstream brands. Clare Waight Keller, the British designer behind Meghan Markle’s wedding dress, recently joined Japanese brand Uniqlo as creative director. Meanwhile, Zara has announced a limited collection with Stefano Pilati, formerly of Yves Saint Laurent and Zegna.
Roberto Cavalli collectionPhoto Credit: Gabriel Bouyz
The fashion world is watching closely as the industry’s top creative talents continue to move, reshaping the landscape of high fashion in unpredictable ways.
With AFP
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