Buenos Aires' taxi dancers guide tourists through tango's intricate and intimidating world in the city's milongas.
For many tourists, dancing tango in Buenos Aires is a bucket-list experience. However, the dance's intricate steps and the intimidating "milonga" dance floors can turn that dream into a daunting challenge. Buenos Aires’ "taxi dancers" professionals accompany novices through the complex world of tango, ensuring that what could be overwhelming becomes an unforgettable night out.
David Tolosa, a 35-year-old taxi dancer, describes the experience of stepping onto a Buenos Aires dance floor as entering a showcase. “You’re constantly being watched, especially by seasoned dancers who observe every move,” he says, highlighting the pressure of dancing in a city where tango is not just a dance, but a deeply ingrained cultural practice.
For women who attend milongas alone, the experience can be even more frustrating. Traditional customs often require them to wait for a dance invitation that might never come. “Many women prefer to hire me because, without a guaranteed partner, they could spend hours sitting and waiting,” Tolosa shares.
Tolosa’s clients are mostly foreign women from countries like Japan, China, France, and the UK, who pay around $50 per hour for his guidance. His busiest time of year is August, coinciding with Buenos Aires' annual Tango Festival. However, milongas are a staple of the city’s social scene year-round, offering tango enthusiasts countless opportunities to dance.
Most taxi dancers like Tolosa work independently, though there are agencies like TangoTaxi Dancers that provide similar services, offering private lessons and accompanied dance outings. Their motto, “Do not sit and wait. Dance and enjoy,” perfectly encapsulates the experience they offer.
Mastering tango is not just about learning the steps; it also requires understanding the non-verbal cues, such as the “cabeceo,” a subtle head movement used to invite someone to dance. Laura Florencia Guardia, a 28-year-old taxi dancer and teacher, emphasizes the importance of learning these unspoken rules. “There are certain codes in tango, like how to invite someone to dance,” she explains. “Hiring dancers who can introduce beginners to this world is invaluable.”
Guardia, who has never had a client step on her toes, skillfully guides her students through the dance. Among her students is Salvador Bolanos, a 37-year-old systems engineer from Mexico, who has come to Buenos Aires not only to learn the dance but to immerse himself in the culture and music of tango. Bolanos appreciates the tango’s blend of melancholy and strength, which he finds deeply moving.
Taxi dancers offer dance instruction and provide an authentic, real-world experience in a traditional setting. As Guardia notes, “At first, beginners are shy, but with practice, they gain confidence. You learn by doing.”
Through the guidance of taxi dancers, tourists in Buenos Aires can transform a potentially overwhelming experience into one of discovery, fully embracing the rich culture of tango in its birthplace.
With AFP
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