©Photo Credit: Andy Buchanan / AFP
Dior tapped into Scotland's traditions and rebellious streak on Monday, June 3, presenting its 2025 “cruise” collection with punk tartan, chain mail and magical ball gowns. Haute couture has been increasingly taking the catwalk on the road to showcase its latest creations, with “cruises” to spectacular locations all over the world.
After Athens, Seville and Mexico, this year, Dior chose the historic Drummond Castle, near Crieff in Perthshire, central Scotland. Among the audience in the castle's formal gardens were Dior muses Jennifer Lawrence, Anya Taylor-Joy, Rosamund Pike and Laetitia Casta, with an army of waiters in elegant black kilts attentively serving guests. Models descended the stone stairs from the castle to the sound of bagpipes, disappearing behind the manicured hedges and trees. They appeared as warriors from the bushes, with long braids down their backs, clad in leather, chain mail and flashy breastplates.
Further, there were magical lace collars, capes, heavy velvet ball gowns and pearl-embroidered corsets. Some styles were combined, with skirts opening onto thigh-high boots, kilts, shorts, teddies, knee-high socks and punk-inspired leather and silver chokers. Tartan, Scotland's most famous fabric, was everywhere, in purple, gold and bright red, giving a grungy feel.
French actress Camille Cottin said that creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri wove tartan and punk culture “with huge grace.” “It was magnificent,” she commented afterward. Strong female characters are often present in Chiuri's collections, and the Scottish show was no exception as she took inspiration from Mary, Queen of Scots. The tragic heir to the throne of England spent nearly 20 years in captivity before being executed in 1587. “She spent decades embroidering as a means of comfort and reflection but also to express herself during her 19 years of imprisonment,” Chiuri wrote on Instagram. The collection featured Scottish emblems such as the unicorn and the thistle.
Dior, part of the luxury brand LVMH, joined forces with local artisans and designers, notably Samantha McCoach, who founded the brand Le Kilt, to reinterpret the Scottish wardrobe essential. The show also paid homage to Dior's founder, Christian Dior, and his love of Scotland and its traditions. Nearly 70 years ago, he organized a spectacular show at the nearby Gleneagles Hotel, followed by an evening of dance with the high society of the time.
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“Cruise” shows in exceptional locations are helping to boost a brand's image as the luxury industry struggles to bounce back from the COVID-19 pandemic. LVMH, for example, saw a 2% fall in sales in the first quarter of 2024 compared with the same period last year, with spending hit by inflation globally. There is also a boost to local tourism. “To have Dior, an iconic fashion house, come to Perthshire will bring worldwide attention to the region,” Caroline Warburton, from VisitScotland, told AFP.
With AFP
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