Vintage Doesn’t Die: Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, From Dance to Lens
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Encompassing nearly 150 prints spanning from 1935 to 1955, the "Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, fashion icon" exhibition showcases the golden age of fashion photography through the lens of masters such as Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Erwin Blumenfeld, all magnified by an exceptional personality. Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn’s son, Tom Penn, initiated this exhibition project at the MEP, Paris, donating a significant portion of this remarkable collection to the MEP's archives.
Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn was a Swedish model, dancer, sculptor and photographer. She is credited with having been the first supermodel. The "Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, fashion icon" exhibition celebrates the unparalleled career of the eternal icon and serves as a testament to the transformative power of fashion photography during its most influential period. Through the artful curation of these historic prints, attendees are offered a unique window into the elegance and sophistication that defined a pivotal era in fashion. This presentation, a vivid portrayal of Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn's enduring legacy, illuminates the enduring intersection of fashion, art and culture.
In an epoch that marked the zenith of fashion's golden era, the tale of Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn emerges as a captivating chronicle of grace, artistry and pioneering spirit. The exhibition, dedicated to this iconic figure, transcends mere retrospective and offers a deep exploration into the essence of fashion photography evolution. It is within this context that David Seidner sated, "It's difficult to imagine the history of fashion photography without thinking of Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn."


Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn's persona, characterized by her timeless silhouette, elegant posture, and an air of grace that seemed to dance around her, embodies the quintessence of glamour. Her approach to modelling, which she described as "still dancing," was imbued with a creative spirit that portrayed an image of independence and freedom. As a multifaceted artist, her roles as a dancer, model, photographer, stylist and sculptor solidified her position as the first "top model" in fashion history, commanding the spotlight in the industry for over two decades.
Her collaborations with the era's most esteemed fashion photographers – including Fernand Fonssagrives, Horst P. Horst and Irving Penn – produced some of the most iconic images in fashion magazines, leading her to grace approximately two hundred covers. Her skill in embodying the art of posing, combined with a discipline honed from her dancing years, allowed her to convey an energy that resonated through the camera lens. "I concentrated my energy until I felt it radiating into the lens," she observed, revealing her approach to modelling and sculpture as forms of expressing "a form in space."
The world of fashion at that time was a playground of experimentation and innovation. Amidst the backdrop of societal shifts and the burgeoning feminist movement, Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn's modelling career reflected the evolving roles of women and the expanding boundaries of fashion's creative expression. This era celebrated the audacity and autonomy of women, ideals that Lisa effortlessly epitomized through her ventures in dance, cuisine and sports, among other activities. The dynamic photographs from this period, characterized by their freedom and bodily expressiveness, were a testament to the modernity thirsted by society.
Vintage fashion icons like Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn serve as beacons of inspiration, and their legacies endure through the ages. Their images not only capture the aesthetic sensibilities of their times, but also the spirit of innovation and liberation that defined their eras. These icons, through their fearless explorations and creative endeavors, paved the way for the fashion industry's future directions, leaving an indelible mark on the cultural fabric of society.
Through this exhibition, attendees are invited to delve into the rich tapestry of Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn's life and career, a journey through the lens of fashion photography that celebrates the legacy of a true artist and fashion icon.
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