©Photo by Christine Najjar Hayek
During Paris Fashion Week, Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika presented his spring 2024 collection at the Hotel Pozzo di Borgo, an iconic venue in the French capital. This collection, titled The Golden Age of the Orient, marks a significant turning point in Hobeika’s artistic journey, bridging his Lebanese heritage with the modernity of Parisian haute couture.
Renowned for his distinctive style that fuses tradition with modernity, Hobeika revealed a collection that celebrated the beauty of Middle Eastern women and the region’s rich cultural tapestry. In collaboration with his son Jad, who joined as co-director in 2022, they skillfully blended Hobeika’s nostalgic childhood memories with the latest fashion trends. Elements from the 50s, 60s, and 70s were seamlessly integrated with contemporary modernism, resulting in designs embellished with oriental embroidery, shimmering crystals, and captivating hues.
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This collection brought to the forefront legendary figures of Arab culture, like Azzedine Alaïa and Elie Saab, while also distinctly showcasing Hobeika’s unique identity. Ever since launching his first studio in Beirut in 1995, Hobeika has consistently made his mark, earning a respected place on the Haute Couture Fashion Week roster.
The garments in the collection were a tribute to the splendor of Lebanese gold, featuring designs with batwing sleeves, sequins, and intricately embroidered tulle pantsuits. The color scheme, spanning from royal blue to vibrant red and turquoise to soft powder pink, injected a sense of joy and lightness, complemented by accents of yellow, purple, green, black, and white.
The accessories, drawing inspiration from the Arabian Nights’ mystique, added an authentic flair. This included bags, shoes, and even earrings reminiscent of Lebanese coffee cups, all contributing to the collection’s magical allure.
Georges and Jad Hobeika expanded their portfolio with a custom workwear line tailored for the contemporary professional woman. This line included striking combinations of buttoned white jackets with sheer skirts and gold-beaded gloves, reflecting meticulous craftsmanship and sophistication fit for daily professional life.
A milestone for Hobeika was the debut of a menswear line featuring elegantly crafted coats with intricate collars, suits adorned with golden embroidery, and other sophisticated details, illustrating Hobeika’s ambition to bring men into the haute couture realm.
A central highlight was the bridal wear, a longstanding tradition in Hobeika’s shows. This season featured wedding gowns embellished with floral petals and crystal veils, alongside men’s suits with subtle ornamentation.
Music played a pivotal role in the show, setting a tone of nostalgia and deep emotion. Melodies from Oum Kalthoum and Fairuz graced the runway, with a standout appearance by Tunisian model Myriam Bouguidida, who perfectly embodied the elegance Hobeika sought to portray.
The show was a vibrant homage to Beirut and Oriental music, capturing the warmth, the zest for life, and the boundless spirit of Lebanon. Through his creations, drenched in hopeful and compassionate colors, Hobeika not only captivated his audience but also highlighted the emotional and cultural significance of fashion.
Christine Najjar Hayek
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