On September 28, 2024, Hermès’ fashion show at Paris Fashion Week was briefly disrupted by animal rights activists, while Vivienne Westwood, led by Andreas Kronthaler, introduced a collection revisiting classical femininity with a modern touch.
Luxury brand Hermès, renowned for its use of fine leather, invited the audience to step inside its creative process on Saturday during Paris Fashion Week. The spring-summer 2025 show, set in a repurposed military barracks, featured a workshop-themed backdrop. However, the event was momentarily disrupted when three animal rights activists stood up, holding signs that read, “Hermès, stop using exotic skins.” The protesters were quickly escorted out, and the brand did not respond to requests for comment.
Following the show, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski, artistic director of the women’s collections, explained the inspiration behind the atelier theme: “I live in the workshop every day,” she remarked. The collection was defined by warm, earthy tones of ochre and beige, with meticulous attention to detail. A traditional three-quarter fur coat was reimagined with an asymmetrical cut and wide lapels, while the iconic Birkin bag was presented inside-out, as though its creation process had been halted.
At Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler unveiled a collection that moved away from some of the brand’s signature irreverent elements, like tartan prints, in favor of a more refined, classic style. “Recalibrate” was the slogan, graffitied across the large windows of the show venue. Andreas Kronthaler opened with a long beige gown with a plunging neckline, paired with a heavy chain necklace. Fluid gauze bodices in deep red and asphalt gray, with just a hint of tartan on the collar, completed the collection, aimed at showcasing a sophisticated yet ultra-feminine look.
Andreas Kronthaler’s goal was to create a collection that felt light, airy and stripped back, with a subtle flash of red and pink, minimal prints and high-quality fabrics that sometimes appeared washed and worn, reflecting a chic yet understated elegance.
With AFP